Jewelry Definitions

Definitions of terms used in this site that you might find interesting.

* Sterling will tarnish less the more that you wear it. We suggest using a treated polishing cloth, rinsing and drying as some silver dips and cleaners tend to take a bit of luster/polish off with the tarnish.

Pewter

Pewter is 85-99% tin, 1-4% copper ( as a hardener) and often lead is added to the lower grades. Sometimes modern pewter mixes tin with copper, antimony and / or bismuth as opposed to lead. A low melting point makes it soft enough to carve with hand tools and like silver will tarnish if left untreated.

Grades of Pewter:

FINE: For eating ware 96-99%tin,1-4% copper.

TRIFLE: For eating and drinking utensils but duller in color, 92% tin, 1-4% copper, and up to 4% lead.

LEY: NOT for eating and drinking because it can contain up to 15% lead.

STAINLESS STEEL

Stainless steel does not rust , stain, or corrode as easily as ordinary steel because it is 10.5% chromium. At 12 % chromium, steel is tarnish resistant and when nickel is added it's non-magnetic .The 316 grade is often used in surgical instruments and most body jewelry because it cleans easier.

STERLING SILVER

Sterling silver contains 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% other metal, usually copper for strength, as Fine Silver ( 99.9%) is too soft for functional objects. The copper is responsible for its tarnishing.The minimum considered "Fine" silver is 925. Countries each had their "hallmark" for sterling: British ( lions head, crown,etc) France( Minerva's head) while the United States stamped".925". Some companies designed their own hallmark for sterling: Gorham ( a lion, anchor, letter 'G') and Tiffany ('T. and Co.')

Grades of Silver:

FINE: 99.9% silver, used in bullion bars used for international trading

BRITANNIA: 95.84% silver and 4.16% copper, often stamped" 958"

MEXICAN: 95% silver, 5% copper

STERLING: 92.5% silver,7.5% other ( usually copper)

COIN: 90% silver, 10% copper

Rhodium

Rhodium's mainly used for hardening and improving the corrosion resistance of platinum and palladium. Plated rhodium is extremely hard and is used for optical instruments. It's used in jewelry and electroplated on white gold and platinum to give it a reflective white surface. It often surrounds diamonds so that diamonds don't reflect the yellow gold setting they are in, giving diamonds a bright, white look instead of a yellow look. This is known as rhodium flashing in the jewelry business. It's also used in coating sterling silver in order to strengthen the metal from tarnish and scratching from the copper in sterling silver.

GOLD

Karat percentage of gold to other alloys is based on 24 parts. The higher the gold percentage, the softer the item-unless it's thick- so other metals like silver and copper are used to harden gold. The metal alloy added may also be used to change the gold color, as in white gold, rose gold,etc.

Grades of Gold:

Pure 24 Karat ( too soft for working with) is used in bullion bars for international trading. It can be used for plating as in Gold Leaf. The lower the Karat content of gold, the more durable and less polishing the item will need but it has less "yellow" color. More Americans prefer 10-14 KT for durability while Asia and India prefer the 18 KT.

18 KARAT: 75% gold (18 parts gold, 6 parts other metal, usually silver and copper)

14 KARAT: 58.3% gold (14 parts gold, 10 parts other metal)

12 KARAT: 50 % gold ( 12 parts gold,12 parts other metal)

10 KARAT: 41.7% gold (10 parts gold,14 parts other metal)

GOLD FILLED: Gold layers mixed with metal alloy, sometimes brass. Must be at least one twentieth of gold to be marked gold filled and is usually at least 10-12 Karat.

GOLD PLATED: Metal with a thin outside plating of gold. This wears off eventually in some places on the item.

ELECTROPLATE: Must have at least 7 millionths of an inch of gold on the surface to be called electroplate. Anything less has to be marked "gold washed" or gold flashed".

VERMEIL: Sterling silver plated with at least 10 karat gold.

WHITE GOLD: Nickel is used to give gold its white gold appearance, but as some people are nickel sensitive, palladium at a bit higher price can be used and is still less costly than using platinum.

ROSE GOLD /Colored Gold : More of the copper is used to create the pinkish effect in Rose Gold while more silver is used for a greenish effect. Black Hills gold is usually 10-12 KT and is a good example of this.

Swarovski Crystals

Swarovski Crystals are regarded as the highest machine cut and polished crystals in the world. How to tell the difference:

*Swarovski Crystals are perfectly uniform in height, weight, slope, etc.

Swarovski machinery precisely cuts each crystal so they may have a hundred identical facets in several directions with each direction reflected by light first calculated by computer, then simulated in 3D, allowing each crystal to have its facet "pointing up" as done in diamond cutting.

Swarovski AB quality crystals have a uniform surface luster. Imitations can have a duller cut, sometimes show an "oily", swirling, scratchy, or uneven look in color and sometimes small bubbles may be inside. Swarovski crystals always out sparkle others in a side by side comparison.

Maltese Cross/ Iron cross

The Maltese cross is identified as the symbol of the Christian warrior and it's design is based on crosses used since the First Crusade. It's in the form of four "V" shaped arms joined together at their bases, so that each arm has two points. The cross has eight points in all and remains the symbol of the sovereign Military,Order of Malta and Orders of St John. It's come to be adopted as the orders of chivalry and is the state emblem of Queensland, Australia. It's the symbol for Fire Departments throughout Australia and various Fire Services in the United States. Other similar crosses (properly known as the cross pattée) appear as the Victoria Cross on the flag of Wallis and Futuna. It's also been used as the official badge of the Delta Phi fraternity since 1833.

Onyx

Onyx is a variety of quartz similar to agate, only with straight rather than curved bands. Popular since early Egypt and Roman times, it was popular for carving and often used for cameo's.

Hematite

A metallic , magnetic stone sometimes used as an artist pigment or for polishing when powdered. In the past it was worn to protect against bleeding and now is said to help arthritis.

***Definitions from Wikipedia encyclopedia